When does lonesome dove get really really good?

Everyone raves about this as being a top tier book.

I’m enjoying it and don’t plan on stopping but I can’t say I’m fully sold on the hype it gets yet. I do really like the dialogue of the characters but not much has “happened” if that make sense.

I’m on chapter 11 they went down south to steal some horses.

Is the vibes the same for the rest of the 700-750 pages I have left or does it “pick up”?